A car that won't start is most often a dead battery — especially if you hear rapid clicking or nothing at all. A single solid click with bright lights points more to the starter; a car that cranks normally but never catches is usually fuel or spark. Age matters: most batteries last 3–5 years, so a battery over 4 years old is the prime suspect.
Likely causes
Dead or dying battery — Clicking, dim lights, or total silence when you turn the key. Heat and age kill batteries.
Failed starter motor — One solid click and no crank, with lights that stay bright.
Alternator failure — The battery died because the alternator stopped charging it — a jump-start works, then it dies again.
Fuel or ignition fault — Cranks but won't catch: fuel pump, clogged filter, or failed spark components.
What you can check yourself
Try a jump start. If it starts, drive 20–30 minutes and have the battery tested — don't assume the jump fixed it.
Check the battery terminals: white or green corrosion can block starting; clean and tighten if you're comfortable doing so.
Note the sound — rapid clicking, single click, crank-no-start, or silence — it narrows the diagnosis fast.
Many shops and parts stores test batteries free; ask before paying for a tow.
Typical cost
Typical in Seattle, WA: battery replacement $200–$350 installed; starter $400–$850; alternator $500–$1,100. A starting-system test often runs $50–$120 and is frequently credited toward the repair.
When to call a pro
If a jump doesn't help, the car dies again after jumping, or you smell fuel while cranking — stop cranking and call. Repeated cranking on a fuel fault can flood the engine.
Data by Servik — verified local pros from official license records and public sources. Cost figures are typical ranges, not quotes; a pro's written estimate is the real number.